Storage Tips for Hibernation

When season's change some vehicles end up running for cover and hibernate for couple months or so until the appropriate time again arrives. So here's a list that's intended to avoid delays, repairs and in some cases catastrophic failures that can occur from poor storage issues.

1)Steel Gas tanks:

Nothing worse than a near empty ga stank sitting for a long period of time, if you have ever seen the inside of one that has been sitting partially empty for a season you will see an amazing amount of rust above the "fuel level" leading to endless fuel delivery troubles.
Fill the tank with fuel so as to displace the air and minimize the amount of condensation in the tank. If storage interval is only for a couple of months, then the fuel will still be useable if stabilized correctly using a fuel stabilizer.

2)Keep a well oiled machine:

Transmissions, Final Drives and 4 cycle engines:
Give it an oil and filter change, oil holds oxidants and acids from the combustion process in suspension so that it will flush it out when periodic oil and filter intervals occur. So for seasonal vehicles dump that end of season oil and let them sit with nice new fresh oil and filters which will aid in internal protection off season. Remember oil and filters are cheaper than engines so even if it's early on the mileage chart change them anyway.

2 Cycle engines:
Change the tranny oil as above, but note that you have to do a bit extra to get that crankcase oiled up and make sure that the crankshaft, connecting rod(s)and bearings are protected from potential off season corrosion.

Injection units- if applicable get that pump to feed maximum oil delivery while at idle which will give you a big dose of oil going through the bottom end. Be ready for sparkplug fouling and need to change when coming out of storage, trust me sparkplug's are cheap compared to crank failures from improper storage

Premix and non-adjustable Injectors- Mix a bit of fuel with a rich oil ratio (in a self standing fuel bottle if possible) as you have to get it in and under the piston to get to the crank, connecting rod and applicable bearings and run it up for a minute or two.

note: there are some commercial preservative oil that is called "fogging oil" that some manufactures sell that aid in storage procedures, if used check the instructions and be sure to use correctly and give an ample amount to provide the protection needed.

4 cycle engines:
If the engine oil has been changed you still need to get some oil into the cylinders as unlike it's 2 cycle counterpart these engines by design scrape away excess oil from the cylinder walls leaving such a light oil film on the walls that it will not be able to protect it for long periods of storage, so help it out. Pull the sparkplug's and give it about 15-30ml depending on the engine size) of oil right down on top of the piston, it will run to the cylinder walls so turn the engine over for a few seconds to distribute it on the cylinder walls then reinstall
the sparkplug's.

3) Battery:
Now is time to remove the battery if it has one and store it in a contained area, in a vented plastic container (where did that tupperware go?) and keep it cool, clean, dry and away from heat sources. Use the correct battery tender as applicable for your battery and remember that "all batteries are not created equal" we have mainly 3 types in use now: Normal, MF (sealed), GEL (sealed) batteries of which the last two may not respond to the older conventional chargers of yesterday but may require the new generation of charger/tenders.

Just don't leave that battery in the vehicle, having seen the effects of a batteries that froze and split in vehicles over the winter months and what it's offending acid did to the chassis, wiring and anything in it's path leaves many an owner with that regret, trust me on this one and pull it out because you should be taking it out to charge it before the new season starts  anyway...right?

4)Carbs:
Now you have taken away the possibility of spark from the battery, turn off the gas tank valve if applicable and drain the carbs if you have them.  AND I mean drain them, find the floatbowl drain screws or bolts and drain them into an appropriate container. NOTE: turning off fuel
flow and running the engine until it stalls hasn't drained the bowl but has only lessened the amount of fuel in the bowl. Think of it like a fast food cola with a straw and lid that doesn't allow the straw to touch bottom, you can't get the container completely empty so the remaining fluid could evaporate and start tarring up if left for a few weeks or months. Fuel is the same way after it evaporates it leaves a gummy tarry residue behind which often leads to carb cleaning before going back into action. So drain them and let them sit dry.

5)Clean, Clean, Clean:
Make it shine like it was going on display and watch for those little pesky areas around bolts, washers, pivots and the like, lube where it would need it and slack off the chain (or track if a sled) while your there. lower the tire pressures and get tires (or tracks) off the ground if you can.  Open sealed compartments and let their seals relax, and coat your vehicle with a preservative just like it had in the crate when it was new. Owners that do this methodically will have the vehicles that look great after a few years versus the ones that have little rust pits here there and everywhere this will define an "eye catcher" from an "eye
sore".

6) Tuck it in for a sleep:
Covers need to breathe, no plastic tarps!
Good covers will accommodate for humidity changes and allow moisture to dissipate and keep things dry.

-That's it, storage in a nutshell!

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